到底什么才是 “机能”？答案都在他的画里了

“机能”。

两年前或更早，你开始听说了这个词。

直到现在，当文化与这两个字挂钩，你脑海中出现的除了那些超酷的外套和球鞋，也许会是两种画面：其一，是那些都市忍者，穿着 ACRONYM® 或其他类似品牌在城市中漫游；

其二，就存在于这个在 Instagram 上大火的，来自俄国的赛博朋克的平面设计师 Yoshimitszu 的作品中：

今天，就让我们与这个赛博朋克 / 机能风格的视觉引领者，来聊聊近年来大热，几乎人人都想追求的 “机能风格” 在他眼中是什么，以及关于他自己的经历、与 NikeLab ACG 的合作、ACRONYM®、甚至在你没钱买 ACRONYM® 时应该怎么做…

 

 

Yoshimitszu

「 When I saw ACRONYM® … I just thought “ok, i need this NOW”」

「  当我看到 ACRONYM® 时，我立即就想拥有它」

 

－I am glad to have this opportunity to interview you Mr. Yoshimitszu. There are a lot of young people in china who treat your instagram account as a “Cyberpunk Bible”. And they are familiar with you pretty well, but I still want you to introduce yourself formally to our NOWRE audience.  

– 知道么 Yoshimitszu 先生，在中国有许多人把你的 Instagram 账号当作 “赛博朋克圣经”来看。想嗯我们的读者打个招呼吧。

– Hello NOWRE audience! I will be glad to answer your questions！

– NOWRE 的朋友们大家好，非常高兴能在这里回答你们的问题！

– When do you start to have an intimate knowledge of Cyberpunk, Urban Outdoor and Tech Wear?

– 从什么时候开始接触赛博朋克（Cyberpunk） / 都市户外（Urban Outdoor） / 机能服装（Tech Wear） 与其相关文化的？

– Futurism has always interested me. Whether it be books, movies or games I was always attracted to the futuristic theme. Techwear I discovered a couple of years ago, when I saw ACRONYM® 2014 Spring/Summer Collection video, and I just thought “ok, i need this NOW” then of course I saw the price tag and started to work hard ha-ha.

– 未来主义永远是我的兴趣来源。无论书籍、电影还是游戏，我总会被这些未来主义主题所吸引。说到机能风格的服装的话是我几年前发现的。在我看到 ACRONYM® 2014 春夏季度的型录视频时，我就在想 “好吧，我立马就要拥有他” 当然随后在我看到他们的价格过后，我就开始努力工作了。

-The background of Russian industry and military development causes high popularity of Tech Wear in your country, So Is it easier to develop (maintain) Tech Wear brand like NAMELESS、グラファイト in Russia than other country?

– 俄国的军事与工业背景，是这种风格能在俄国也开始渐受关注的原因。这是否意味着在俄国做这样的牌子很容易？像 NAMELESS、グラファイト 等等…

– I will contact only with Nameless, but I know they want to sell their clothes Worldwide, because popularity of techwear in Russia is estimated tens of people.

– 我只会与 NAMELESS 的人联系，但我知道他们实际上是想把自己服装推向世界，因为估计在俄罗斯真正爱好机能服装的估计也就几十人…

 

 

「 … I also did not finish any art-design-painting schools」

「 我从没在任何艺术、设计、绘画院校就读过」

– What are you interested in before you getting to know the Cyberpunk Culture?

– 那么在接触这些文化之前，你都在关注什么？

– Japanism. On a par with cyberpunk I love Japanese culture, anime, manga, jdm.

– 日本文化 。我像喜欢赛博朋克文化一样的喜欢日本文化，动画、漫画、JDM （日本改装车文化）等等。

– I know it is a bit overwhelming and personal，but we are really curious your “a day of the life” ? What is your causal daytime routine? 

– 我知道这有点八卦了：给我们描述一下你日常生活中某一天吧。

– In addition to working at the computer on art for instagram or graphic design work, I play video games, go to the gym, read books/manga and photograph.

– 当我不在电脑前为我要在 Instagram 上发的作品和另外的一些图形设计工作时，我通常会玩电子游戏、去健身房、看书 / 漫画和图片。

– Many people are jealous of your creative thinking, what was your major at school, anything related with art and drawing?

– 很多人向往能够有你的 “手艺” ，所以能不能给我们透露一下，你之前在学校，也是学习的相关专业吗？

– I’m self-taught, my education is related to the protection of networks and programming. I also did not finish any art-design-painting schools too.

– （关于设计的部分）我是自学的，我在学校的专业是网络技术与程序维护，也没有在任何艺术、设计或绘画学校就读过。

 

「Nikelab just email me with offer to make something cool with ACG clothes」

「Nikelab 邮件了我，问我能不能用 ACG 的产品做点酷的东西出来」

 

– I have seen that you posted a few collaboration works with NikeLab ACG, could you let us know more about the collaboration?

– 我看到最近你发布了几张与 NikeLab ACG 合作的作品，能不能给我们介绍一下这是一个怎样的合作？

– Nikelab just email me with offer to make something cool with ACG clothes. I was glad to such a proposal therefore immediately agreed. They just send a box with ACG gear and told me “Do what you want as part of the concept “MOVE.ADAPT.PROTECT”. This is really awesome.

– Nikelab 邮件了我，问我能不能用 ACG 的产品做点酷的东西出来。他们对我有这样的诉求我很高兴，所以就立即同意了。随即他们给我送来了一箱 ACG 的装备，告诉我以 “MOVE.ADAPT.PROTECT” 的概念为延伸，任意进行创作… 这真的太棒了。

 

 

「…I’m huge fan of MGS except the Phantom Pain」

「我是 《合金装备》 系列的铁粉儿，但除了第五部」

 

– I have noticed that your name is similar to a video game character “Yoshimitsu” from 《TEKKEN》，is it where your name inspired by?

– 我对你的名字非常敏感，它和 《TEKKEN》 系列游戏里的著名角色 “吉光（Yoshimitsu）” 只相差一个字母，这个角色是你名字的灵感来源吗？这背后有着怎样的故事？

–  When i was young i spend a lot of time playing Takken 1-3 on Playstation 1. Yoshimitsu was my favorite character he combined great character design, history and gameplay. I immediately realized that this is my bro. when I needed to come up with a nickname to play Unreal Tournament 99 with my friends a lot of time ago, I decided to become Yoshimitsu but for fun I added Z ha-ha.

–  《铁拳》 1-3 代我小时候玩了很久，吉光是我最喜欢的角色，他有相当棒的人设、背景历史与游戏性，他就像我最好的兄弟一样。后来在我跟朋友一起玩儿 《虚幻竞技场 99》 的时候我需要一个昵称，我就决定叫吉光了，为了好玩儿，我在里面多加了个 “z”。

– From what you have posted on Instagram, I guess you must be a fan of 《Metal Gear Solid》as well, personally I am so into it, Hideo Kojima and Yoji Shinkawa definitely create a legendary ,！It is one of your inspirations comes from?

– 从你发布的作品看，我猜你一定也和我一样是 《合金装备（也译作潜龙谍影）》 系列的粉丝，Hideo Kojima 和 Yoji Shinkawa 的确缔造了一个传奇… 它也是你的灵感缪斯之一吗？

– Yes, I’m huge fan of MGS except the Phantom Pain, super boring gameplay, but still great character design.

– 是啊，我是 《合金装备》 系列的铁粉儿，但除了 《合金装备 5：幻痛》，游戏太无聊了，但必须承认人设依旧伟大。

– And except 《MGS》,  appears like 《AKIRA》、《Ghost In The Shell》and《DEUS EX》in your works too, how do they influence and shape your creativities?

– 除了 《合金装备》，我看到你的作品里还出现了 《阿基拉》、《攻壳机动队》、《杀出重围》等等… 这些作品，都对你产生过怎样的影响？

– I am inspired by everything. Soundtrack, character design, atmosphere etc.

– 可以说我的灵感来自于一切。电影配乐、人设、故事背景氛围… 等等。

 

 

「 I do not edit those who dressed badly, even for money」

「我不会给那些我认为穿得丑的人做设计，即便他给钱」

 

– It must be a lot of people ask you for art design. If you don’t mind, can you tell us how much money your clients should pay for a project? 

– 一定有很多人找你做设计吧？是否介意问一下，作你的客户，是不是要花上很多钱？哈哈…

– Not so much as you think ha-ha. Actually if someone texting me about photoedit and he have great techwear/avant-garde outfits I can do it for free in my free time.  I do not edit those who dressed badly, even for money. 

– 没你想的那么多哈哈。实际上，如果穿着超酷、前卫的人发我他的照片，我可以在空闲时间免费帮他做。我不会给那些我认为穿得丑的人做设计，即便他付钱。

– Have you ever thought about  turning your design works into reality? If you think so, how to make it come true?

– 是否想过要把你的设计变为现实？如果有，具体计划是怎样的？

– Soon there will be something interesting. This includes the 3D printer:)

– 很快就会有一些有趣的玩意儿出来了，这其中包括一些 3D 打印作品 （神秘的微笑）。

 

 

「Techwear – a subculture」

「机能服饰 —— 一种亚文化」

– Let us talk about Tech Wears, some people believe that ACRONYM® and its founder Errolson Hugh have huge influence (fundamental effects) on Tech Wear, what is your opinion about it? Do you agree?

– 还是让我们聊聊服装吧。有人说，ACRONYM® 与 Errolson Hugh 对整个 “机能服装” 文化都有着奠基作用，对此你怎么看？

– I love ACRONYM® designs, but honestly I had only a couple of pieces from ACR, I can not say much about the ACRONYM®

– 我爱 ACRONYM® 的设计，但老实说我也只有几件而已，所以关于他们我也表达不出太多想法。

– You have created a few works about ACRONYM®, does Errolson Hugh contact you personally? 

– 你的作品中出现过这么多次的 ACRONYM®，Errolson Hugh 本人有曾联络过你吗？

– No, he didn’t contact me.

– 没，他没联络过我。

– List some your favorite designers.

– 说几位你喜爱的设计师吧。

– Yoji Shinkawa, Katsuhiro Otomo, Maciej Kuciara, Nivanh Chanthara.

– 新川洋司、大友克洋、Maciej Kuciara 和 Nivanh Chanthara。

– Do you think sometimes tech wear makes your life more complicated, because you have to wear more clothes on (to maintain the look)? It is conflict because tech wear is supposed to make people feel effortless and easy to wear, do you think it against what tech wear should have done? 

– 我发现一个矛盾：觉不觉得其实有些 “机能服装” 的设计，反而会让生活变的更复杂？（你往往比平常需要穿戴更多东西在身上）这似乎有违 “机能” 的初衷？

– Actually I try not to look like SWAT homeless operator and I do not dress everything i have in my wardrobe at the same time. If teachwear makes your life more complicated you wear it wrong.

– 实际上，我尽量不让自己看起来像那些在路边与无业游民对峙的特警队员；而且我也不会把我衣柜里的一切都穿在身上。如果你所谓的 “机能服饰” 让你的生活变得更复杂，那就说明你穿错了。

– Tech wear, like ACRONYM® and many other brands, are on the pricy side, many people do not have enough money to afford it, to those of audience who cannot buy themselves an ACRONYM®, are there any alternative tech wear brands out there in the market?

– 不管怎么说，像 ACRONYM® 一样的“机能风格” 服装因为其高昂的价格常令人难以接受，那么对于那些现在还没有那么强经济实力的人来说，你会有什么建议？比如替代品牌？

– NikeLab ACG, Arc’teryx Veilance, Stone Island. Techwear can’t be a cheap, better find new way to dress or new way to make money, if you want to be a techwear boy:)

– NikeLab ACG、Arc’teryx Veilance、Stone Island … 但其实机能服饰就不能是便宜的。要么找到一种新的穿衣风格，要么你就找到一种新的方式多赚钱 —— 如果你想成为一个机能男孩儿的话。（神秘的微笑，again）

– There is a true fact that many brands start to “functionalize” their clothing line even though they have never had any experience of tech wear style before, what do you think about this phenomenon? 

– 一个事实是，在 ACRONYM® 之后，一大批类似风格的服装品牌都出现了，甚至许多之前与这种风格毫无联系的品牌也开始了 “机能化”，对于这种现象，你怎么看？

– I dont know ha-ha. I do not keep track of other brands.

– 哈哈这我真的不知道，我不关注其他品牌。

– Can you forecast the latest trend of tech wear? and what is it going to look like in the future?

– 那能不能为我们预测一下 “机能”风格在将来会发展成怎样？ 

– I think more military colors, more tech sneakers. 

– 更多军用色，更多科技感的球鞋。

– Last question is, does tech wear belong to fashion? What is the relationship between the two terms? And why is that? 

– 最后一个问题，“机能”是时尚吗？是或不是，都请说出原因。

– I dont think so. Techwear outfits looks too lowkey for fashion, just look at Fashion Week’s, anyone looks brightly and tries to stand out from the crowd. Techwear – a subculture.

– 我认为不是。机能风格对时尚来说太低调了。看看时装周就明白了，谁都想让自己闪亮起来，并试图从人群里脱颖而出。机能服饰 —— 它是一种亚文化。

专访过后，我最大的感慨就是，ACRONYM® 与 Errolson Hugh 对于现今整个 “机能风格” 爱好者群体的扩散式影响。当然，就像我们已经提到过无数次的，无论是从理论还是从视觉上，这些机能服饰都应该在赛博朋克文化上寻根 —— 但你知道么，在我们前几天译自 i-D 的选题中我才知道，原来“赛博朋克之父” ，美国科幻小说巨匠 William Gibson 已经算是 ACRONYM® 的一员了…

这下，有关 “ACRONYM® 为何能…” 开头的问题，几乎都可以迎刃而解了，而我也不得不承认，能把启蒙自己的人，最终拉进自己的事业里当智囊，Errolson Hugh 这一步，未免也太人生赢家了吧？

羡慕，PEACE.