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PRADA 2025 秋冬女装系列发布
一场关于女性气质与社会期望的深刻对话。
PRADA 一如既往地挑战传统,带着对「美」的另类定义向前迈进。秋季系列的发布不仅仅是一场时装秀,更是一场关于女性气质与社会期望的深刻对话。在如今社会对性别认知的纷争愈演愈烈之际,Miuccia Prada 与 Raf Simons 携手呈现了一个充满挑战和自省的系列,一起思考「女性气质」的边界。
本季的主题并非给出一个明确的答案,而是发出了多个迫切需要解答的问题——什么才是今天的女性气质?性别、外貌、举止……这些元素如何定义我们对美的认知?设计上,通过有意扭曲与不合身的服装款式,挑战了固有的美学标准。正如Raf Simons 在秀场后台所说:「当你思考这些词汇时,你会不自觉地联想到经典、传统的形象。」然而,Miuccia Prada 与 Raf Simons 用了一种非常不典型的方式诠释了女性服饰,打破了小黑裙这一长期以来被视为女性「美丽」象征的固有印象。
「小黑裙」不再是完美合身的经典款式,而是被解构为「服装碎片」,摆脱了原有的功能和语言,展现出一种自由、松散的形态。这种解构的美学,正是品牌本季要探讨的核心:打破女性服饰传统上的束缚,解放出新的女性气质。与此同时,通过改变经典的比例、强调简化后的结构、故意暴露接缝等设计手法,探索美的界限。
连衣裙这一象征性服饰在 PRADA 的设计中被赋予了全新的意义。许多连衣裙剔除了常见的设计元素,例如口袋——这一最具实用性的细节,长期以来被视为与「美丽」不符。通过这种解构,让我们重新审视女性气质的多样性和包容性。此外,针织服饰的处理更是富有戏剧性。与其顺着身体自然伸展,针织面料被设计成与身体保持一定距离,依靠纱线的重量创造出一种弹性感。每一次动作都伴随着服装的反弹,形成了一种独特的动态美学。这不仅是对服装的重新思考,也是对自由与束缚关系的深刻探讨。