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Jacquemus 发布 2025 春夏成衣系列
本季灵感源于美国与法国的交互。
Simon Porte Jacquemus 展示最新系列的地点,不是远方的薰衣草田、盐沼、玉米地或艺术中心,而是选择了巴黎的一座「亲密」地点:由法国建筑大师 Auguste Perret 为自己和妻子设计的装饰艺术风格公寓。建筑内设置了多台 iPhone 16 Pro Max,用于拍摄这场名为「La Croisière」的 2025 春夏成衣系列秀。
这季出乎意料的成熟和精致,例如圆形裙摆配茧形外套创造出蓬松的轮廓感,剪裁贴身的拼接府绸连衣裙完美展现曲线,以及黑白波点薄纱披肩搭配宽松卫衣与铅笔裙的组合则显得摩登且俏皮。开侧设计的针织连衣裙,后背系结的优雅细节贯穿其中,还有巨大的虎纹歌剧大衣。男装部分,三套白色西装中,一件内衬波点的大衣仿佛为 Met Gala 量身定制。
Simon Porte Jacquemus 透露,这次的灵感来源于美国与法国的交互,他提到品牌开设了纽约和洛杉矶的门店,以及 Coco Chanel 和 Christian Dior 曾赴美的历史。同时,他观看了大量法国高级定制沙龙秀的录像,还研究了玛丽莲·梦露的造型,这一切构成了这场「法国与美国之间的对话」。
虽然这次的系列更加成熟,但并非风格的彻底转变,而是对早期法式高级定制灵感的延续与深化。Jacquemus 仍然保持了他标志性的几何趣味——圆形、三角形、条纹与波点巧妙交织,展现出一如既往的俏皮与创意。这不仅是对经典设计的致敬,更是一场属于 Jacquemus 自己的风格实验。秀中展现的优雅、性感和经典,也许正是 Jacquemus 风格发展的新方向。这次的 41 套造型,尤其在近距离观察时,显得极其细腻。Simon Porte Jacquemus 希望通过这种小型秀场,让人更坦率地检视他的设计作品。