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Mar 1, 2024
- Rick Owens 2024 秋冬女装系列登场
对于社会严格审美标准的「温和」回应。
新一季于波旁宫广场落下帷幕,Rick Owens 独特、广阔的视野依然足够宏大,足以让这座宏伟的巴黎宫殿融入现实。蝙蝠翼肩刮过耳垂,羽绒背心像保护壳一样包裹着躯干,皮靴和上季男装秀上的充气橡胶靴搭配在一起,让人想起了太空服——如同模特们刚从月球漫步归来。Matières Fécales 的 Hannah Rose Dalton 所穿的深粉色连衣裙看似背后长出了翅膀,增添了一抹空灵的戏剧感。
细微之处也更令人着迷。从领口长至厚底鞋的针织连衣裙,背后设有舷窗来展示迷人的纹身。优雅的斜纹垂褶连衣裙搭配羊毛披肩,反应出 Rick Owens 对 30 年代风格的痴迷。Rick Owens 表示,那些蓬松的马海毛大衣搭配让肩部更具轮廓的羊毛制物,是他早期在好莱坞大道做设计师时设计的军毯大衣的原型,那是第一个他可以成为自己想成为的人的地方。让它们复活,与其说是一种怀旧之举,不如说是一种期冀。
作为巴黎最后几位独立设计师之一,Rick Owens 本季拥抱了其自传式旅程。哥特式本能与他对女神轮廓的偏好相互抗衡,披风上的装饰艺术字体则提及了其加利福尼亚州的家乡波特维尔——所体现的压迫下的坚韧,为当今社会严格的审美标准提供了另一种应对态度。