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Jan 21
- DIOR 发布 2024 秋冬男装系列
Kim Jones 首个男装高定全系列,灵感自俄罗斯舞蹈家 Rudolf Nureyev。
为少数客户定制的精美单品总是散布在 DIOR 的各系列中,但男装艺术总监 Kim Jones 希望在受俄罗斯舞蹈家 Rudolf Nureyev 启发的今季中专为这些单品提供一个部分。这带来了 Kim Jones 在 DIOR 的首个男装高定全系列。另外,Kim Jones 的叔叔 Colin Jones 曾是皇家芭蕾舞团的舞者,后成为一名摄影师,他曾在下班和排练时拍摄的 Rudolf Nureyev 照片也为该系列提供了素材。
Kim Jones 特意让 40 款成衣造型保持「干净简约」,以专注于 DIOR 的主打类别——剪裁,及标志性 Oblique 套装的迭代。外套例如宽敞的麦尔登羊毛外套和皮夹克,配饰包括玛丽珍运动鞋、粉色芭蕾舞鞋和绗缝缎面帆布包等。其他元素则直接参考了 Rudolf Nureyev 衣橱中更低调的元素:罗纹针织衫、带超宽腰带的长袍外套、扭曲的头巾和凸出的拉链羊毛连身裤和短裤。
接下来的 20 款高级定制时装将秀推向了高潮。它们的灵感源自 1995 年佳士得 Nureyev 拍卖目录中的物品以及 DIOR 档案。一件用宝石般的色块编织而成的银色和服是根据一位舞者自己的设计制作的,由 10 个人耗时三个月完成。与此同时,配有配套披肩的上衣和裤子如在夜空里闪闪发光,灵感源自 1950 年为芭蕾舞演员 Margot Fonteyn 设计的德彪西连衣裙。甚至还出现了一条钻石颈链,用以搭配带腰带的双层牛仔夹克和裤子。另一个亮点是一件绣有银色图案的灰色斗篷,其灵感源自 DIOR 标志性的 toile de Jouy。