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LOUIS VUITTON 2024 秋冬系列秀场回顾
从法国巴黎到美国弗吉尼亚。
北京时间今天凌晨,Pharrell Williams 交出了他在 LOUIS VUITTON 的「第三张答卷」,这次他从法国巴黎「回到」美国弗吉尼亚州,倾情诠释美国西部服饰的起源。
旅行,作为品牌的核心精髓和思想的永恒展现形式,依托 LOUIS VUITTON 的精湛工艺,在探寻工装起源的过程中成为主角。本系列作品采用珍稀宝石镶嵌、手绘、专业刺绣等匠心技艺,淋漓再现美国西部连衣裙的经典元素。这一设想体现在:与来自达科塔和拉科塔部落的艺术家展开创意交流,内容涵盖音乐、舞台和系列元素,以及与美国鞋履制造商 Timberland 展开合作。这是 LVERS 社群的不懈追求,而 LVERS 正是 LOUIS VUITTON 男装系列的核心理念。
美国西部服饰固有的工装尽释精湛工艺。丹宁布表面覆有珠饰亮片花朵刺绣,呈现水洗炮铜色,饰有光束和雨珠图案,或印有西部花卉图案。牛仔裤取材镶嵌或绣有 Monogram 和花朵图案的丹宁布或流苏皮革,皮革夹克和长裤再现马鞍印花。变形后的 Damier 图案融入水牛格纹,呈现于外套、夹克和衬衫的梭形法兰绒、粗花呢、亮片和羊毛嵌花上。披肩大衣和背心印有牛仔 Monogram 图案,睡衣取材牛仔蕾丝,粗花呢夹克呈现牛仔风格的「千鸟格」图案。原创牛仔画作化身提花图案,用于装饰雨衣;干画布用于点缀绳索刺绣图案夹克,或化作成衣上的印花图案,仿佛被草原烈日侵蚀一般。
LOUIS VUITTON 绅士服饰由美国西部传统装扮演化而来。遵循乡村美学,在西服和衬衫上用链条缝制仙人掌、牛角、波洛领带等西部元素。工装廓形转变为饰有手工刺绣金属感红铜色花卉的精裁牛仔夹克,饰有彩色光束珠饰的工装夹克,由金属饰钉或青绿色装饰打造的细条纹或 Damier 格纹西服。作为工装的典范,工装裤采用高级精裁面料。西部风格衬衫放大西部风格固有元素——轭、铆钉和花卉刺绣,其他衬衫则采用牛仔 Monogram 提花、牛仔蕾丝、西部风格印花,或在条格布上点缀饰带刺绣。
本系列首次推出由 Pharrell Williams 设计的全新热模手柄手袋。Speedy 手袋呈现多种变换和全新形式:铆钉马鞍包结合 Saumur 手袋;点缀 Damier Navette 饰钉的 Steamer 手袋;采用牛仔靴拼贴色调的 Pochette Accessoires XL 手袋。Steamer 手袋以三种尺寸焕新推出,其中包括一款 65 厘米的大尺寸廓形。融入 Damier 图案的水牛格纹帆布包裹牛仔金属件。取材做旧 Monogram 帆布、拉丝 Monogram 和褪色效果 Denim Damier 的手袋,呈现被草原烈日侵蚀一般的色泽。Damoflage 图案或呈现日蚀般的微妙橙色调,或用于点缀饰以牛毛的Cowmooflage 牛皮革帆布。具有雕刻感的皮革手袋沿用马鞍包的模型。特别版手袋包括书包、工具包,以及拥有手绘银色 Monogram 鳄鱼图案、鸵鸟 Monogram 图案和牛皮革鳄鱼图案的 Speedy 手袋和 Steamer 手袋。
LOUIS VUITTON 与 Timberland 展开合作,依托品牌创意视角和意大利工坊的精湛工艺,携手打造一系列美式工装靴。此外鞋履的设计灵感源自美国西部的工装靴。LOUIS VUITTON 与得克萨斯州的专业西部靴制造商固特异(Goodyear)合作打造的 LV Texan 是一款真正的牛仔靴,其缝线工艺和刺绣装饰融合了 LOUIS VUITTON 和美国西部的图腾。LV Rodeo 牛仔鞋是一款系带款牛仔风搭扣绊带僧侣鞋。流线型圆头西部靴 LV Rider 采用鳄鱼皮、蟒蛇皮、鸵鸟皮、麂皮和牛毛等材质拼接而成。毛茸茸的 LV Footprint 拖鞋搭配脚爪图案压花设计鞋底。这些系列的材料还应用于高帮版和低帮版的 LV 雪地靴和 LV Maxi Trainer。此系列首次推出了一款饰有 Damoflage 图案的全新科技橡胶靴,并搭配方格鞋底。
浏览过完整造型后,你觉得菲董的第三辑作品怎么样?